A Botanical Garden is a piece of art. It is an illustration of man’s imagination utilizing nature’s design as its center piece. The Garden’s concentration of exotic plants allows visitors to experience close encounters with all sorts of wildlife attracted to its bounty. Here, on the southwestern border at the base of the Corcovado Mountain, the Rio de Janeiro Botanical Garden abuts the Atlantic Forest. Even prior to purchasing my ticket, I discovered a fig tree bustling with activity. Feeding on its fruit were thrushes, toucans, euphonia and even flycatchers snatching insects among its branches.
Entering, I was informed to zig-zag my way through this bucolic setting in search of the Escova-de-Macaco, or Monkey’s brush tree, to find hummingbirds. However, I was distracted by an old friend in the shadows. Attached to rope-like cords, clusters of lily-like flowers of the deepest blood-red hung from beneath its canopy - an African Sausage Tree (Kigelia africana). It brought back memories of the long, fat sausage-shaped fruits dangling from trees I encountered while in Tanzania, East Africa.
Continuing towards the center of the grounds, small flocks of various parrot species zipped past overhead. It was necessary to find the birds perched to get an I.D., but even than it was difficult with their proximity in the canopy among the thick foliage. Several high-pitched guttural squawks lead me along to a truly majestic tree, a huge Kapok tree or Ceiba.
To provide support in nutrient poor soil, large butress roots flare out from the base. Ceiba pentandra was considered a sacred tree by the ancient Mayan civilization; they called it ‘Ya’axche.’ For them it was the tree of life, symbol of the universe.
Today, it was host to a multitude of hungry pa’ssaros. The Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus) stood out for its size and colors.
Plain parakeets were the most active and numerous but remained relatively obscure due to the height of this tree. Maroon-bellied Parakeets (Pyrrhura frontalis) also partook in the festivities. My attention is diverted to a buzzy, lisping call that terminates with an upward inflection. The tiny songster turns out to be a Yellow-olive Flatbill (Tolmomyias sulphurescens).
Another familiar tree is the garishly adorned Cannonball Tree [Couroupita guianensis]. One of my first encounters was at a bus stop across from Summit Botanical Gardens outside Panama City; outright I thought it was a vine. Appropriately named, it has fruits resembling a cannonball that grow as 'vine-like' stems from the trunk. Each rose-white colored inflorescence is pleasantly pungent and creates a dazzling display of color as they twist their way up the trunk.
Towering palm trees of many types also retain clusters of fruit from beneath their fronds. Isolating the source of a more guttural squawk directs my bins toward a pair of Red-shouldered Macaws (Diopsittaca nobilis).
Much of this area has scattered trees allowing good views of flycatchers hawking insects from an exposed perch. Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus) was the most prevalent and ostentatious – noisily acknowledging itself on a regular basis.
The other notable species were the Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)
and Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus).
At times I had to remind myself to look down, many parts of the manicured lawns hosted many types of finches. It seems this early part of December has the Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) molting. Breeding males’ wear a sleek blue-black coat otherwise they appear like young birds with a patchy brown mosaic; females are all brown and creamy buff below and heavily streaked.
In contrast, feeding within the group, is the bright canary yellow of the male Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola).
In line with the Avenue of Royal Palms [Roystonea oleracea] runs a canal.
In its shadows I find a Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) wading about for food.
A low flying hawk makes for a quick chase until it lands, a Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris).
Further ahead, a series of bubbly jip, jip, jip notes, leads my eyes to a Masked Water-tyrant (Fluvicola nengeta). It is indifferent to my presence, as are most of the local wildlife having become habituated to humans.
Just prior to reaching the Rio dos Macacos, I notice a large shadow moving just beyond the brush. Moving forward for a better view it breaks out into the open – a Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail (Aramides saracura).
The river is actually a wider cement canal than my previous encounter, and it has a rock bottom with areas of accumulated silt providing patchy areas of vegetation. Before me is a much shallower creek that holds some interesting types of of fish such as a Hypostomus, a type of armored, suckermouth catfish commonly referred to as a ‘Pleco,’ ...
...swimming past are some Pearl Cichlids (Geophagus brasiliensis).
A pair of predatory Wolffish (Hoplias malabaricus) are given a wide berth.
Before I scan downriver a Striated Heron (Butorides striata) takes flight, it in turns has a Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata) follow suit – along with me! I do my best for a slow approach but both disappear further down river under the sanctity of overhanging trees.
I move on with Palm Tanagers (Thraupis palmarum) as an escort; they are everywhere!
A persistent “tick-tick-tick” call rings out from the inside of a thick patch of thorny Arecacea. It is irritating when the bird is just in front of you but hidden by vegetation. I decide to record its one-minute aria: it starts out rather faint, builds to a crescendo before it slows and fades to termination. I was debating between two species so I consulted one of the local bird guides for an answer; he said it was a Plain-winged Woodcereeper (Dendrocincla turdina). The bird snuck out the backway as I then heard it in the distance.
“Let’s see if I can find it.” Probably half way from the source it flew even further – “Enough!” In pausing other singers came into the scene. Center stage presented a cooperative Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum poliocephalum).
Across the road the lawn continued until it reached another trail lined with large clumps of bamboo. Both habitats were buzzing with activity. A Double-collared Seedeater (Sporophila caerulescens) belts out its song near the bamboo, others were scattered across the lawn.
A pair of Yellow-bellied Seedeaters (Sporophila caerulescens) flew to a limb not far from me, allowing for some nice shots.
Male
Female
Stopping for any of the parrots happened only when they landed. This time a trio of Plain Parakeets (Brotogeris tirica) swooped in with one bird briefly hanging out in the open.
Coming up to a rocky outcrop displayed several sunbathing Amazon Lava Lizards (Tropidurus torquatus). They quickly scattered to the backside of their resting place upon my approach.
I find a bench to refuel and hydrate and as I unpack my goods, I ask myself, “Who will be joining me today?” From past experience, there has always been some critter that drops in to entertain me – the logical explanation is probably that I never stop listening or looking around wherever I happen to be. “There you go!” Opposite is a tree filled with lilac-colored blooms with a hummingbird zipping from one flower to the next. This Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Eupetomena macroura) can be easily decided with the naked eye by its long, deeply forked tail.
I had not taken much effort to pursue the other flying creatures, the Lepidoptera. There were many types of butterflies but most were higher up in the trees, where their food source could be found. An occasional Heliconian would flutter past and there was this moment with a mating pair of Skippers that alighted in front of me. I needed to use my phone for this image.
This mating couple led me to a grassy plot - it was literally painted with Pink Rain Lilies (Zephyranthes robusta).
Strolling a little further was a dead stump that harbored these brilliant ornage fungi, called Southern Cinnabar Polypore (Trametes coccinea).
Suddenly a Kiskadee rings out its name letting all know that this was his territory. “Fine.” It is time for me to cool off in the shade, anyway.
Many familiar songs are heard but one has me contemplating if it is actually a bird; then it dawns on me – marmoset! I follow the high pitched “phee” call and find a small family. They are not shy at all. Other visitors gather around and these little monkeys are completely indifferent to their presence. These are the Common or White-tufted Marmoset (Callithrix jacchus), a Brazilian native, but it was introduced into this part of the country and has become a pest in some areas.
A forested track opens to a tranquil setting of the Lago Frei Leandro. The pond is named after Friar Leandro who, in the early part of the 19th century, decided to take on the onus of botany professor at the Medical-Surgical Academy in Rio de Janeiro. There is a bronze bust of him nearby that states from 1824-29 he was the Garden's first botanical director. Large Traveler’s Palms (Ravenala madagascariensis) dominate one end of the lagoon.
Various flycatcher’s capture prey over the open water; they are joined by Southern Rough-winged Swallows (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) that catch a drink by skimming across the surface. A variety of water plants don the surface, the most spectacular has to be the Amazon Water Lily (Victoria amazonica). The leaves can attain a width of three meters! These are probably half that size but still very impressive.
Heading back I flush a pair of Ruddy Ground Doves (Columbina talpacoti) and...
...a Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis) with nesting material.
Spotting movement in an adjacent tree discloses a Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola), which hops out onto a bare limb and belts out a series of scratchy warbles and trills.
Across the canopy, the ubiquitous Palm Tanagers noisily engage in a game of tag. They lead me to a very colorful bird probing about on a mossy-vine covered branch. Finally, a Green-headed Tanager (Tangara seledon)!
I should find more tomorrow. My curiosity has me zooming in on a small tree; it is decorated with clusters of pinkish-purple blooms.
The plant identification sign says it is Averrhoa carambola. “Well I’ll be, it’s a Starfruit!” I have never seen the tree until now.
Today I begin my journey going the opposite direction, towards the Restinga. This is a unique habitat of nutrient-poor soil that is dry, sandy and acidic compromising the growth to medium sized trees and shrubs. This is specific to the coastal region of Eastern Brazil. A local birder recommended spending time in this area. Riding the thermals, the skies are filled with a constant flow of vultures (Coragyps atratus) and frigatebirds (Fregatta magnificens).
A Rufous-bellied Thrush (Turdus rufiventris) looks skyward, too, but now there is quite a commotion up in the canopy.
There are plenty of palm Tanagers and more thrushes and an all-black bird. Is it just a silhouette against the sky? Nope. Spending more time observing, the chin is lighter and then the pa’ssaro tilts its head slightly and I see the red - Flame-crested Tanager (Loriotus cristatus)! I wish it would fly down for a closer look.
Another bird, another underbelly view: pale white with chestnut undertail coverts, appears bluish above. That is the description for a Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum).
I also find an individual Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis) and a female Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana).
Back at Lago Frei Leandro I discover the waters harbor several very large Tambaqui, sometimes called Pacu (Colossoma macropomum). Their size and bulk can be
intimidating but these fish are vegetarians, feeding on fruits that fall from the trees.
I decide to briefly head towards the center of the grounds, and I am glad I did. A pair of Rusty-margined Guans (Penelope superciliaris) emerged from the shadows.
That is all I needed so with a quick turnaround it was back to my destination. Another distraction is when I hear, “Macaquinhos fofos!” [“Cute little monkeys!”]. People were admiring a family of marmosets that has come down to wallow in their popularity. Admittedly, when I saw mama’ with two little ones clinging to her back, "Well, what can
I say?"
Through the canopy swifts can be seen knifing their way across the sky. These are probably Sick’s swifts (Chaetura meridionalis). Blue-and-white Swallows joined the entourage. Channel-billed Toucans pass through.
Down at tree level a Pale-breasted Thrush (Turdus leucomelus) sings for a mate; an additional bird chatters nearby.
Another bird heard for the last two days hops out from behind the trunk of a tree; it is the Southern House Wren (Troglodytes musculus).
The next songster is an antwren, but I can only assume it is the one most commonly seen in the Gardens. I finally get my bins on it and does indeed turn out to be the Rusty-winged Antwren (Herpsilochmus frater).
In passing the Bromeliads Greenhouse the Restinga habitat begins - the Sandbank Collection as it is called. Continuing straight to the backside is the Rio dos Macacos (...more like a canal) where a large hummingbird settles up under the canopy of a large tree. Backlit makes it too hard for an I.D. Thankfully I have my flash attached. Even though it is a ways up, enough light reaches the subject to reveal a Violet-capped Woodnymph (Thalurania glaucopis).
A pair of squabbling Violaceous Euphonia (Euphonia violacea) rush in and the colorful male, bright blue above and bright yellow below, allows for a quick snapshot.
Two and a half months afterwards, in late February, this exact spot offered up a splendid experience. Below, where the river is more of a stream, an adult Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail nonchalantly went about feeding. In the twilight, wearing downy coats of black and brown, waited two hungry chicks. Having the next generation alongside the parent one cannot help but relish nature’s design - adopting the basic neutral color for the young as an aid to avoid detection from predators and then develop into these vibrant colors that advertise the fitness and health as an adult.
It is interesting that this Sandbank Collection’s substrate is, indeed, white sand!
So any movement along the ground is easy to spot, such as the seed collecting Ruddy Ground Dove and...
...more Double-collared Seedeaters.
Then a Masked Water-Tyrant flies in just have me eat my words!
A medium sized tree has movement, some tanagers are feeding and are squeaking with delight! FYI, spectacular colors of this family they do possess, but that does not necessarily mean they can hold a note! Indifferent, once you lay your eyes on these gems, “Who really cares!” A couple of Green-headed Tanagers flit about, to me, the head is more blue than green but then another bird arrives and has the light, teal color of its title. It is tough to maneuver around with them through the branches, but when the sun lights up the scene, there is an explosion of color.
In one instant I saw more green than normal, and then a flash of red. Suddenly it drops from under the canopy, a Red-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanocephala) at its finest. They all move about, as do I, from one tree to another in search of fruit. As quickly as the event transpired, it does so in exiting.
I find a bench to grab a bite under the shade. Halfway through I hear a high ‘piping’ call above me. There, a Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher is perched with a bill full of moss, I see its mate, too. Time to build a nest!
The area also hosts a small pond complete with lily pads. On one end, like a marble statue, stands a Great Egret (Ardea alba), poised ready to seize an unwary fish.
A small island with several palm trees appears to be the center of a disagreement; a water-tyrant has chosen the sight to construct a nest and a Social Flycatcher is looking to move in.
If that is not enough, a kiskadee flies in to voice its opinion.
The tanagers and euphonias return and entertain me for a while longer before I head back up stream. Male
Female
A different fruiting tree hosts dozens of Palm Tanagers along with more thrushes, mainly Pale-breasted. A single whistle followed by a jumbling of assorted notes signals a Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus) is just ahead. I find two birds and a third arrives as I am about to move on. Following the river with hopes of finding the kingfisher pays off. It takes flight but lands a short distance away. This time it shows no concern with my presence. “Nice!”
Filtering through the gardens are more toucans.
The grassy areas host the usual assortment of finches and seedeaters. Up in a palm tree a feeding Plain parakeet is chased off by a pair of Maroon-bellied Parakeets.
The vocalization of more tanagers offers a quick glimpse of a Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca).
Speaking of which, soft trilling whistles uncover a Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua). The voice seems so feeble for its size. It closely resembles the Greater Kiskadee but is obviously larger regarding its bulk with a thicker, broader bill – hence the name.
Once again, I pass the purple flowering tree and the Swallow-tailed Hummingbird swings in for an ‘energy drink,’ as it were.
An assemblage of flycatchers along a waterway creates another detour. Birds are flocking in for a refreshing bath as others hawk insects in the open field.
I, too, feel the heat and make way back. A nice, “Ate’ logo!” “Farewell!” is given when a troop of Black Capuchin Monkeys (Sapajus nigritus) emerge.
They are rather quiet considering all that movement through their canopy habitat. An added gift flies in, the Plain-winged Woodcreeper.
As I am about to leave the Gardens, I feel the urge to turn around for a final glimpse. Right then, up on a vine tangled limb lands a toucan.
“Obrigado meu amigo!” “Thank you, my friend!”
Date: December 2024 and February 2025
Location: Rio de Janeiro Botanical Gardens, Brazil
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